Good day. Only walked 21 or 22 kilometres, but the last six were a climb and rugged terrain. It’s the most fun I’ve had in a while.
Then we ended up in the clouds, at the small town of Foncebadón, two kilometres from Cruz de Ferro. It’s a pretty quiet place with about four albergues rising from the many ruins around them. They’ve managed to give the area a pretty cool vibe, not an easy feat.
Three young men and an older one appear involved in the small albergue I’ve chosen to spend the night: Albergue Monte Irago. The guidebook says there are usually chickens and goats all over the place, but they must have dispensed with them before the winter. It’s just a few pilgrims, the odd resident and the occasional cat and dog. One of the latter accompanied me on a slow walk out of town. Since I leave in the morning while it’s still dark, I always make sure I’m familiar with the first part of the road out before I go to bed. This can be really confusing without lights. I took up this habit after getting lost a few times.
The dog followed me and gave a playful growl towards someone who came close. This is all without any enticement on my part. In all the literature, it’s made clear that we should make no movements towards the local animals. Some have been known to react rather strangely. This one accompanied me to the door of the albergue and then wandered off wagging it’s tail. Who knows what animals have in their heads?
Am now in front of the fire, warming my cool bones and writing a few words. It feels good to be out of the cold early. And it is cold. No doubt there. When you’re in the clouds and he weather hovers around freezing, it’s tough to be warm.